Here’s what happens: metals come into your pool whenever fresh, make-up water is added. They’re dissolved in the water. Whether it’s municipal water or well water, metals can be present. As the metals accumulate, the greater the chance that they will eventually come out of solution. Once out of solution, they make the water cloudy or worse, they “plate out” on the pool’s surfaces & stain. Metals can come out of solution through a variety of ways. But there’s 2 that typically happen.

When a pool is shocked whether with chlorine or a non-chlorine oxidizer, the shock oxidizes everything in the water, including metals. Oxidized metals become “rust” in the case of iron or “Verdi gris” in the case of copper.

In the second way, metals come out of solution or are left “exposed” when the pH, Total Alkalinity and/or Calcium Hardness are left unchecked & allowed to go low (pH below 7.2, Total Alkalinity below 80 ppm [non-Pristine Blue pools], Calcium Hardness below 100 ppm). The water becomes aggressive & the metals are more susceptible to oxidation. In many cases, pool-owners don’t properly test their water & more likely rely on the “look” of the water (the water’s clear, everything must be alright). This is typically the case with blonde hair turning green – low pH helps bring copper out of solution & “plates” it out on the person’s hair! Then people blame the chlorine! It’s the copper in the water.

When it comes to testing, remember that you can only test for metals when they are in solution. Once oxidized, the metals come out of solution & cannot be tested. That’s why once a metal stain has occurred, the metal test will NOT show any metals present.

Here’s how to prevent metal stains:

Keep the water balanced. pH 7.4 – 7.6; Total Alkalinity 125 – 150 ppm (vinyl pools), 80 – 125 ppm (plaster / gunite pools) (Please note that these TA values ARE NOT applicable in Pristine Blue treated pools where the TA is to be maintained at no higher than 80 ppm); Calcium Hardness 200 – 250 ppm (vinyl pools), 225 – 275 ppm (plaster / gunite pools). In other words, have your water professionally tested at opening, mid-season & at closing (at least) – make sure they do a copper & iron test.

Prevent metal stains by using BioGuard Pool Magnet (a sequestering agent) or Jack’s Magic Pink Stuff or Blue Stuff when filling the pool then adding a maintenance dosage monthly.

If you have well-water, treat automatically with Pool Magnet or Jack’s Magic.

If you have municipal water, Pool Magnet or Jack’s Magic won’t hurt.

In areas of High Calcium Hardness, regularly treat the pool with products such as BioGuard Scale Inhibitor to prevent staining and scaling due to excess dissolved calcium in the water. This type of staining can result in what is often times referred to as “plaster mottling.” Plaster mottling is a condition with newly plastered pools where the plaster looks “streaky”. There is almost no way to prevent from happening because of the differences of water sources, plaster “formulations”, environmental conditions, etc. In other words, the pool guy didn’t do it! It’s a condition that can and does happen.

If it’s too late & you already have staining:

1. Get the water balanced. Keep in mind that further discoloration COULD occur. This is a temporary phenomena & will clear once the treat process is complete.

2. For light staining of iron & copper, use BioGuard Pool Magnet at a rate of 1 qt. per 10,000 gallons of water. BioGuard Pool Magnet works well on “fresh” stains. Avoid shocking the pool for about 3 days.

3. For heavy staining, Jack’s Magic Blue Stuff is an excellent product. Jack’s Magic products are preferred because you can have high or higher amounts of chlorine present (in excess of 10.0 ppm). This is especially important when treating metal problems PLUS chlorine demand or algae problems. You can treat both at the same time. Follow this up by using a product like BioGuard Sparkle Up which can physically remove the heavy metals from the water.

4. For light to medium staining on pool steps BioGuard Stain Remover is a good product.

5. Heavy metal staining on vinyl, fiberglass or acrylic steps can be treated with Jack’s Magic Step Stuff.

6. Save yourself time, money & effort using Jack’s Magic Stain ID Kit. It really helps in identifying the exact metal that’s causing the stain.

7. Keep in mind that when treating metal stains, the staining may not lighten or be “removed” for several days to several weeks, especially if the stains are “old”.

Click here for further information on the importance of good chemistry, seek expert help on pool water care.

Firstly you need to identify the actual reason for the stain. There can be various root causes for the stains as follows -

• Leaves in the pool can indicate that the root cause is organic and the stains may be caused by these leaves which are usually greenish with algae like appearance.
• A reddish brown stain is probably an indication of rust coming from a metal source which if not seriously looked at will not only give you bad rust staining but can also lead to more serious pool problems in the future.

Having done the identification work now the task of actually getting rid of the stains

• Organic stains can easily be removed by hard scrubbing the surface area with a hard brush and organic cleaner. There are also pool chemicals which contain enzymes that destroy the actual organic source of the stain so that you don’t have resort the hard scrubbing as previous mentioned. Pool chemicals are the preferred option especially if you own a more luxurious pool which may not take kindly to the hard scrubbing solution.
• Rust stains usually appearing as red or brown staining need to the have the source identified as soon as possible. Metals containing iron are most commonly the source of these stains, also other metals such as copper or manganese can also corrode leaving a different colour stain. Some examples of the possible sources of these stains could be ladders and drains etc. You can try using a proprietary rust removal product such as BioGuard Pool Magnet Plus to remove the rust stains which have proved to work previously again even the most stubborn of stains. However, be aware that other acids in the pool may compete with the rust remover in which case you will have to reduce the acid concentration in your pool thus allowing the rust remover to do its job.

You must now seriously consider preventative measures in order to stop any future pool staining.

• Have your pool water checked for any presence of metal remembering that metals are part of our natural environment and therefore present everywhere. Be sure when filling your pool, that the water is free of any metal components as these will contribute to the staining of your pool.
• Check out the pipes and plumbing equipment that is used to fill your pool as these also can be a source of rust staining – prevention is better than cure.

Finally, if you still have a pool staining problem which the above hasn’t identified then drain the pool to it half way level and refill with treated (softened) water. Leave this to circulate for a couple of days and test it for the second time for traces of metal. Remember that corrosion is a likely outcome when metal components are present in the water. You should ask for the TDS level (Total Dissolved Solids Level) plus its pH alkalinity levels of your pool water. Iron or other metals present in the pool water can leach from the water surface and into the pool surface forming rust stains.

Finally, remember to de-chlorinate your pool once again and thus ensure its total cleanliness.

So you’ve finally made the decision to install a swimming pool. Now comes the enjoyable part; choosing the most sensible style. With progress in pool construction and design over the past few years, your choices are almost limitless, and the multitudes of options to accent your pool are equally abundant.

Initially, you have to establish what you want in a pool? Will you be using it for relaxation, playtime or chiefly to keep fit? You’ll also need to decide which style work best for your house and whether it conforms to your home’s exterior. Choosing a pool design that conforms to your home’s style is important. A thoughtfully-designed pool will add significant worth to your household investment, and will offer years of enjoyment to you and your family. Make your choice wisely and take the time to investigate all the options available. Consult with different pool builders before making any verdict, and make sure whatever style you decide on falls within your budget.

Whether you’re training for the next marathon, simply trying to stay in shape or seeking to alleviate pain from whatever plagues you, swimming is one of the greatest exercises you can do for your heart, mind and physique. Lap pools provide the greatest bang in home exercise, with the perfect low-impact workout, designed for people of all ages and capacities. Lap pools can be installed almost anywhere, inside or outside your home, on the condition that the room is at minimum one to three feet bigger than the pool’s exterior. Continual lap pools, the most up-to-date in backyard exercise, utilize a special propeller that creates a current of resistance for the swimmer to swim against, burning nearly double the calories as typical lap pools.

If you’re looking for the best in family enjoyment, try the many water park features to be found for your pool. From the impressive Riverflow current system that’s perfect for kayaking, to the Lazy River system that wraps around your entire backyard, letting you float lazily along a leisurely moving current as you unwind. This isn’t your parent’s swimming pool; this is the latest in modern innovation, providing features that compete with premium resorts. Speak to your pool experts and see what works best for your family. When it comes to the perfect pool design, the only restrictions are your imagination.

One of the newest and perhaps grandest styles you’ll discover is called the negative-edge pool. This design is striking in that the pool itself is actually missing one or more of its edges, giving the impression that the water is extending off into the horizon or simply cascading off into nothing. In actuality, the pool does have all of its edges; some are just concealed in a water collection reservoir below the pool and hidden from sight. The water that falls into this reservoir is then recycled into the top level through the pool’s normal filtration system. Without exception, it’s one of the most lavish looking designs on the market today, but the effect can only be achieved if the main section of the pool is elevated above the reservoir portion of the pool. If there’s any reservation as to whether a negative-edge pool would work in your backyard, talk with a professional pool construction company.

 About the Author

Search Arizona homes for an ideal spot for summer swimming fun: AZ New Build Real Estate and South Scottsdale Real Estate.

Let’s define what pink slime is. Pink slime is a naturally occurring bacterium (of the newly formed genus Methylobacterium). Pink Lime is NOT a form of Algae, it is animal not vegetable. It is pink- or red-pigmented and forms a heavy, protective slime coating which provides the organism with an unusually high level of protection. Pink slime consumes methanol (a waste gas) and it is oftentimes found WITH White Water Mold. This organism is very resilient and resistant against halogen-based (chlorine or bromine) as well as non-halogen sanitizers or germicides and can remain a contaminant even after treatment.

Although initially found in swimming pools being treated with biguanides (Baquacil, Soft Swim, Polyclear, etc.), it is now seen in any and all swimming pool environments. This is NOT a biguanide problem ONLY nor is it CAUSED by the use of biguanides.

The pink slime bacterium has an affinity for the matrix that exists on the surface of PVC plastics; it will attach itself to & inside of the matrix, allowing it to re-contaminate long after it appears that it has been seemingly “destroyed” (includes pool toys, floats, ladders, steps, fountains, automatic pool cleaner parts, skimmer baskets, weirs, directional fittings, garden hoses, etc.). Small quantities of pink slime can lead to a re-establishment of the problem. It is caused by improper water & pool maintenance, environmental factors and poor circulation. Pink slime prefers areas that are “dark” (not exposed to direct sunlight) & with “slow moving” water. In another industry, medical technology, this bacterium occurs regularly in laboratory tubin.

Look for pink slime under ladder treads, behind the skimmer weir, on the undersides skimmer baskets, pool directional returns, underwater pool light niches and light housings. If you find that the pool just isn’t holding chlorine, bromine, or even hydrogen peroxide used in biguanide treated pools, look for pink slime.

After regular tracking of homeowners swimming pools affected by pink slime, here are some commonalities:

• Many, but not all, affected pools have “smaller (under) sized” cartridge filters. (i.e. using a 75 sq ft filter on a 24 ft Rnd aboveground pool or a 90 sq ft filter on a 15 x 30 inground pool).
• Affected pools get 6 hours or less of direct sunlight on the pool surfaces.
• Pool owners always leave the solar blanket on AND don’t chemically clean the blanket the recommended 2 times per year to remove the accumulated biofilm.
• “Shocking” or oxidizing of the pool water is not done with the recommended label instructions. For example, rather than shocking the pool every week or two, that task is neglected because the water “looks fine.”
• Rainy pool seasons see a dramatic rise in the cases of pink slime.
• Customers regularly add fresh water from their tap without letting the hose-water run for a couple of minutes (the pink slime is already present in the garden hose and is transferred to the pool).
• Pools with sand filters are not changing the sand every 2 to 3 years AND not chemically cleaning the filter sand 3 times a season (once every 6 to 8 weeks).
• Newer observation: Most of the affected seem to use publicly treated drinking water. Pools filled with well water appear to be not as severely affected.
• Affected pools are not as fastidiously maintained chemically (water balance, use of borate additives such as BioGuard Optimizer Plus or Proteam Supreme, regular shocking), as clean pools.

Another observation is that many water companies across the country, in partial response to “consumer calls” to “get rid of chlorine in the drinking water” are now using mono-chloramines to treat the water (over the past 15 to 20 years). Mono-chloramines do an essentially good job at treating pathogens in the drinking water, however, some of the non-pathogenic organisms may indeed be getting by. Unfortunately, there is only experiential or anecdotal evidence.

Prevention of “pink slime” is preferred over treatment.

Follow these steps to help prevent pink slime:

• Physically brush & clean ALL Pool surfaces weekly, including ladder steps (especially underneath each step) & rails
• Expose ALL pool surfaces to as much sunlight as possible (sunlight & UV are natural oxidizers)
• Remove the lid from the skimmer to allow sunlight into the basket for several hours each day ** INGROUND POOLS MUST USE EXTREME CAUTION in doing this in order to avoid a person falling into or otherwise injuring themselves due to an open skimmer.
• Regularly add oxidizing chemicals into the skimmer to purge & clean the filtration lines of any bio-film (use extreme caution if doing this. Add chemicals slowly and remove ANY and ALL objects, including slow dissolving chlorine tablets or sticks, to avoid a potential chemical reaction such as explosion.
• When adding make-up water from the garden hose, allow the water to run for 2 to 3 minutes before putting the hose into the pool.
• Regularly clean pool toys & floats (use BioGuard Stow Away acting as a mildewcide)
• Regularly clean pool solar blanket (use BioGuard Stow Away)
• Chemically clean the pool filter every 4 to 6 weeks (use Strip Kwik, Kleen It or Soft Swim® Filter Cleaner). This is a very important step regardless of the filter type; sand, DE or Cartridge.
• Add regular Maintenance dosages of “Shock” & Algicide every 1 to 2 weeks as prescribed (3 to 4 weeks in bguanide pools).
• Use borate products such as BioGuard Optimizer Plus as a preventative measure (borates, when used properly at a rate of 50 – 80 ppm, allow the sanitizer to sanitize rather than sanitize and prevent algae growth).
• Run the filter a minimum of 12 hours daily to prevent “dead spots” in the pool.
• Remember to clean & rinse the brushes, hoses & vacuums that you use to clean the pool
• Leave as much of your pool equipment exposed to the sun (sunlight is a natural oxidizer)
• Keep the water balanced at all times. Recheck after heavy usage or rain or large “top-offs” of new water. Water balance refers to Free Available Sanitizer level, pH, Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness.

Treatment of “pink slime”
MUST BE QUICK AND TOTAL!    DON’T SKIMP!

1. Clean all pool & affected surfaces as prescribed above.
2. Physically clean & remove all visible “pink slime”
3. Add an initial dosage of algicide to the pool
4. “Shock” the pool with a triple or quadruple dose
5. Run filter 24 hours daily until water is clear & halogen or peroxide levels are maintained at a “higher” level
6. Chemically clean the filter. Simple rinsing or backwashing of the filter will not remove the greases, oils & other accumulated contaminant from the filter and filter tank.
7. Have the pool water professionally tested & analyzed. Look for a pool company that knows what they are talking about and isn’t afraid to tell you the truth about problem.
8. Maintain Optimizer Plus (or other borate product) levels
9. Maintain good water balance of pH, Total Alkalinity & Calcium Hardness

The longer that you allow the pink slime to remain, the more difficult it will be to cure.

Written By: Ronald Parrs Article Source: EzineArticles.com